Maintaining the chain drive

The chain drive is the most common drive system on bicycles. It is lightweight, efficient, and compatible with all standard shifting systems. At the same time, it has an open design, which makes it susceptible to external factors such as dust, moisture, or road grime. To keep the chain clean and running smoothly, it needs regular maintenance. It's not just about the appearance; what matters most is smooth operation and minimal wear.

1. Park your bike securely

   Before you start, make sure your bike won’t fall over. A work stand is ideal because it gives you easy access to the drivetrain and allows you to turn the crank backward freely. If you don't have one, you can easily lift the rear wheel or carefully lean your bike against a wall. The main thing is that you can work safely without slipping.
2. Remove coarse dirt

   Chains are usually made of hardened steel with a protective coating. If dirt such as sand, salt, or mud accumulates inside, it acts like an abrasive paste. So wipe the chain dry first to remove any loose dirt. This prevents fine particles from getting deeper into the joints during cleaning.
3. Use a chain cleaner

   Now it gets chemical. Use a chain cleaner that dissolves grease but does not damage seals or metal parts. Avoid using harsh chemicals, such as brake cleaners, which strip away too much of the protective coating. Spray the cleaner evenly onto the chain, paying special attention to the inside. That's where most of the dirt collects. Let the cleaner sit for a moment, but don't let it dry.
4. Perform mechanical finishing

   After letting it sit, it's time to get down to business. Use a chain brush or a special cleaning tool to get things moving. This way, you can reach even stubborn residue in the crevices. This is especially important for finely tuned shifting systems with many gears. Turn the crank backward slowly so that you can reach every link in the chain.
5. Remove the cleaner and dry the chain

   Now the cleaner has to come down again. Leftovers could interfere with the effectiveness of the fresh oil. First, wipe the chain with a slightly damp cloth, then pull it through a dry, clean cloth. The chain should be completely dry before you apply oil. Otherwise, moisture can become trapped, especially in narrow gaps, and cause rust later on.
6. Re-lubricate the chain

   In chain joints, lubrication ensures that everything runs smoothly. Without it, metal parts come into direct contact with each other, which leads to friction, heat, and wear. Choose an oil that suits your needs. In dry weather, a thin oil that penetrates well is ideal. In rainy weather or during winter, you'll need a stronger-grip oil or a wax emulsion. Apply the oil to the inside of the chain while slowly turning the crank backward. After letting it sit for a few minutes, wipe off any excess oil with a clean cloth. Only a thin, even film should remain on the chain.

Lubrication is crucial to the chain's service life. Without a protective film, wear increases because the pins and links rub directly against each other. A light oil is sufficient for dry conditions. In wet weather or during winter, you should use a more durable product that adheres better.

It's important to apply the oil sparingly, preferably directly to the inside of the chain. This way, it goes straight to where it's needed. Excess oil should be wiped off after a short contact time to prevent unnecessary dirt from accumulating.

Many manufacturers specify on the packaging or in the product description the conditions for which the oil is best suited. So it’s worth taking a quick look before you reach for the bottle.

Over time, the joints in the chains become loose. The chain gets longer and no longer engages properly with the teeth. This causes the drivetrain to run unevenly and leads to faster wear on the sprockets and chainrings.

You can easily check if your chain is still in good condition using a chain wear indicator. It is a small metal tool with two hooks or pins. Most models have two measurement scales, often labeled with the numbers 0.5 and 0.75 or 0.75 and 1.0. These values represent the degree of wear in millimeters per link.

Here's how to do it
Place the chain wear indicator flat against the chain and insert the first side – for example, the 0.5-inch side – with both ends into two consecutive chain links. If the gauge doesn't go all the way in, everything is still fine. If it slides in easily, you can check the other side. If the 0.75 or 1.0 side can be fully inserted, the chain is worn out and should be replaced.
Depending on the manufacturer and type of drivetrain, the values vary slightly – for simple drivetrains, 1.0 is often sufficient, while for modern 11- or 12-speed systems, you should replace the chain no later than when it reaches a value of 0.5.

Rust, stiff links, or creaking noises when pedaling are also clear signs that the chain is no longer working properly. If you act quickly, you'll protect your entire drivetrain and won't have to replace the sprockets and chainrings later on.

How often you should maintain your chain depends on how and where you ride. If you usually ride in dry weather, cleaning the chain every 200 to 300 kilometers is sufficient. In rain, when riding on gravel or in winter, you'll need to maintain it more often. Even after riding through puddles or after long tours, it’s worth giving your chain a quick clean.